This month was chosen as the first month of the year on the Roman calendar, as a sign of renewal at the end of winter. However, Spring and its abundant produce arrive late at French markets in March.
A large variety of fresh seafood is still abundantly available in French markets, but there are only a few changes in the fruits and vegetables for sale. Certain types of produce appear which have been cultivated under glass covered frames, or “sous-châssis. ” They add some variety to the fading winter vegetables that will disappear from sellers’ stalls by the end of the month.
The French still follow fairly closely the seasons when cooking, so these subtle changes will have an influence on the recipes they make: March is the month they say goodbye to heavy soups made with winter vegetables and hello to stews made with seasonal meats like lamb or veal.
So let’s go through each category – from surf to turf, to fruit orchards, vegetable gardens, and cheeses – and see what arrives at French markets in March, what’s past its prime, and what’s in high season.
What’s arriving at French markets in March:
From the sea:
Cod: Also called “skrei” in Norway, this fish is caught off the coast of the Lofoten islands where it goes to spawn.
From the butcher:
Goat Kid: Like lamb, kid has a short season. The best months are from March to April. (The Auvergne region has a traditional recipe of a stew with a sorrel based sauce. Sorrel is also in season in March).
Vegetables:
Asparagus
Artichokes– 2 varieties appear: the large round ones from the Brittany region and the smaller “poivrade” version from the south of France.
Morel mushrooms or “Morilles” – The season is very short, but in a good year it can last from March to May.
Other vegetables cultivated “sous-châssis” or under glass-covered frames: young carrots, radishes, and small turnips. They give some variety to the waning vegetables of winter.
Fruit:
Strawberries – the first French strawberries appear, the “Gariguettes” varietal. But their flavor isn’t at its best.
Wild or Woodland Strawberries – these are the cultivated version, as the season for authentic wild strawberries starts in 2 months.
Cheeses:
Goats Cheese: March is the beginning of the Spring goat cheeses.
The first varieties to arrive with a Protected Designation of Origin are:
–Sainte-Maure de Touraine and
– Crottin de Chavignol
What’s on its way out at French markets in March?
From the sea:
Mussels
Sea Urchin – the season is over and those still for sale are over-priced. It’s a long wait until the next fishing haul.
From the butcher:
Pork – pork is always available, but it’s not from farm-raised, free-range pigs.
Fruits:
Pears – the “Passe-Crassane” is the last varietal of the season, but it’s not very good now.
Clementines – they’ve lost most of their aromas if they’re still for sale at all.
Litchis – they’re dry at this time of year
Vegetables:
Salsify – they no longer have much flavor
Pumpkin and Squash – the last of the hearty soups are made now and then the season’s over until next October
Truffles – Their quality has already started to decline, and the season is definitively over after March 15th
Cheeses:
Vacherin du Mont d’Or – The production is regulated and officially ends on March 31st until next October. The milk used for this cheese’s production will go towards producing another mountain cheese, the “Comté”.
What’s in High Season at French Markets in March?
From the sea:
A large variety of great seafood is still abundant at French markets in March:
Oysters
Turbot & Sea Bass
Monkfish – a typical winter fish Sea Bass
Sole – it’s at the lowest price of the year in March
Whiting
Pollack – this is a great fish for making the traditional “Hachis Parmentier” recipe, but without using meat.
From the butcher:
Lamb – The next 3 months are the best for this meat. Lamb raised near the saltwater marshes of the Mont-Saint-Michel region are the best.
Veal – from the Normandy and Auvergne regions.
Fruits:
Kiwis – they’re so abundant they’re used for making jams!
Pink Pomelo Grapefruit – from Florida
Pineapple – from the French Antilles.
Vegetables:
Spinach – baby spinach leaves are the first to appear and are used for salads in France.
Sorrel – used for sauces in the Auvergne region with roast kid. It’s rarely eaten raw in France and is only used for sauces and soups.
Fava Beans – often served with lamb
Cheeses:
Blue-veined cheeses – Bleu de Gex, Fourme de Montbrison
Pressed Cheeses – Abondance, Comté, Laguiole, Salers, Cantal, Oussau-Iraty
Washed Rind cheeses – Epoisses, Maroilles, Langres, Munster-Géromé
Conclusion:
The seasons still influence to some extent the recipes that go on French tables. Meat coming into season like lamb or veal will encourage home cooks to choose classic recipes such as Navarin d’Agneau or Blanquette de Veau for their meals.
Traditional side dishes like fava beans and sauces made from sorrel are also based on March’s seasonal ingredients.
Choosing fresh ingredients that are in season gives French meals flavor and variety. Home cooks don’t make the same dishes all year round when they follow the seasonal calendar.
And now you: How does this compare to what’s on offer at your market or grocery store? Do you change your ingredients and recipes according to the seasons?
Leave a comment below and let me know!
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Photos courtesy of Unsplash.com
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